Light gold yellow in colour. The nose is still on its reserve but allows for glimpses beautiful aromas of fruit, ripe citrus, wet stone and spices (thyme). Its aromatic delicacy does not predict the powerful attack of this Brand. Indice 1: Dry - Rich, dense, intense, it vigorously envelops the palate. The mouth becomes strict on the finish with a sapid mineral mouthfeel. There is no doubt that this wine will close up slightly in the months following the bottling. You will then have to be patient and give it time to open up. This Brand 2020 is dense and strict. It embodies the verticality expected of such a granitic terroir and has a great aging potential. (Winemakers note, August 2022)
The Grand Cru Brand is located on a biotite granite mother rock (with two micas) on the heights of the village of Turckheim, against the Vosges mountains. Renowned throughout the history of Alsace wine, this terroir probably owes its notoriety to the intensity and brilliance of its wines. The Brand Vineyard ripens its grapes quickly, especially when it takes advantage of favourable summer rainfall like in 2020 when during the first weekend of August, 80mm of water fell in a few days. The Brand is probably the terroir on the estate that requires the greatest precision in choosing the harvest date for the Riesling. It is regularly the first Grand Cru terroir to be harvested, but one of the wines that takes the longest to finish its fermentation!
"Be prepared to be amazed! Staggering nose of ripe pineapple, Amalfi lemon, honeysuckle and mystery. Enormously powerful and concentrated with breathtaking drive, this heads off into space like a star ship. Such razor-sharp mineral acidity, yet also staggering, textural complexity at the incredibly long finish with its cornucopia of citrusy aromas. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold."
98 points.
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, (August 2022)
"The 2020 Riesling Brand is from vines planted in the 1950s (predominantly), 1970s and 1920s. Deep, pure, intense and flinty on the complex and refreshing mineral nose that also reveals perfectly ripe (tropical) fruit aromas (mango, passion fruit), this is a powerful, rich and saline Riesling with great intensity, power and compact but fine tannins. The finish is long, intense and salivating, but the aging potential is even greater. 13.7% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in April 2022. Drink 2027 - 2050.
96 points."
(Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate, March 2023)
"Zind-Humbrecht own 40 ha of vineyard, 2.5 ha of which are on the Brand grand cru and planted with Riesling only. 70-year-old vines (they use only vines which are 40 years and older in their grand cru bottlings). Certified organic and biodynamic since 2002. They have four horses which they use to work their lieux-dits and grands crus. They do very long pressings. All spontaneous fermentation which can last anywhere between a couple of weeks to a year. They always work with big casks, 80 to 120 years old. On lees for 10 to 11 months. 2020 was a very hot year and quite dry. Tartaric acidity 7 g/l, RS 5 g/l.
Incredible nose! Talc, long lacy flowers, tree flowers, hay and sweet lime. The intensity of this wine is stunning. Piercing acidity. Clementines and the promise of honey. Pirouettes on the nose but does wild tango on the palate. Silk and staccato. Seems to thrum with resonance. Drink to 2035."
18 points.
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com (January 2024)
