Tuesday, Jan 21st 5pm– Domaine Vieux Télégraphe – Hosted by Nicolas Brunier (6th generation to be involved with Domaine).
Nicolas was originally responsible for the viticultural side of operations, having completed six different “stages” in California, Argentina and numerous Domaines across France including Bordeaux and Burgundy. Edouard has taken over this role and Nicolas is now charged with vinicultural practises/hosting etc. Both his uncle Daniel and father Frédéric have taken a slight step back from operations though no doubt keep a close eye. Nicolas' sister Manon is tasked with HR and all other glamorous, yet necessary tasks.
Nicolas was amiable and easy to get on with. He took us on a quick tour of winery and the vast, recently magnificently renovated cellars. He informed us that over the last five vintages they have lost approximately half of their output in a form due to: hurricanes, rain/hail, mildew, coulure and other yield reducing climactic factors.
Nicolas told us “Overall, the vines handled the heat and drought of 2023 well in the Southern Rhône, and that I would say that 2023 was as successful a white vintage as it was red vintage in Châteauneuf. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape there are some extremely high-quality red wines to be found, yet in this vintage, choosing carefully is key. Some over ripeness can exist and high alcohol levels were detected across many wines, with abvs in and around 15%."
Pigeoulet Blanc 2023 – Vin de Pays de Vaucluse - Bold, fresh and aromatic with balance and simple yet defined fruit. Med – acidity but well-made and expressive.
Pigeoulet Rouge 2023 – 14.5% abv – Medium body, fresh with firm tannins and a spicy gentle backbone of dark fruit. Made at Domaine la Roquète – all aged in concrete.
Mégaphone 2023 – 14.5% abv – Mainly Grenache with 20 Syrah. Some whole bunches. This lends a darker fruited, bolder expression when compared to Pigeoulet. Slightly less finesse but fleshier, supple and soft – a bit more commercially viable.
Domaine Les Pallières – “Terrasse du Diable” Gigondas 2023 – 90% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre. No “Les Racines” was produced in 2023 due to Grenache suffering from widespread grape shatter. Grapes for Terrasse du Diable were not affected as the vines are younger and seemingly shatter is not as prevalent. So aromatically charged, red fruit, cherry, plum, strawberry, liquorice, garrigue and intense aromatics. Very pretty, even at this stage. Different in style to Les Racines which normally presets as a darker, rockier more tense style, though no less appealing.
Clos La Roquete Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2023 – 13.5% - Equal parts Grenache Blanc, Clairette & Roussanne. 50 year old vines – 4 hectare plot. Medium body with real energy on the nose. Pineapple, almond, stone fruit and some secondary notes of honey, nut and cream. Very impressionable and delicious!
Vieux Télégraphe Blanc 2023 – All “La Crau” fruit – 40% Clairette, 25% each Grenache Blanc & Roussanne & 10% Bourboulenc. Quite and dense nose but more refinement and savoury character. Fans out on the finish. Apple, fennel, pineapple but with a stony line of acidity. Will take longer to reveal true depths. Layered and absolutely gorgeous.
Vieux Télégraphe Blanc 2019 – Subdued nose showing some slight oxidation that even Nicolas remarked on, needed decanting. Flax, nut, quince and dried citrus and flower. Salty mineral finish but hard to resist. Very gourmand and complex.
Telegramme Rouge 2023 - blend of 90% Grenache and the rest of Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Floral, open and charming. Averil described it as a “beginners guide to Châteauneuf-du-Pape”. Soft tannins, sandy, lovely complexity and so charming. A real winner.
Piedlong Rouge 2023 – 11 hectares - 90% Grenache (sourced on galets roulés) and 10% Mourvèdre on sandy soils near Pignan (Rayas country). The exotic, perfumed and floral side of Grenache but with density of spice, red berries and garrigue. Medium bodied and very compact at this stage.
Vieux Télégraphe Rouge 2023 – Average age of vines -70 year old plot – 70% Grenache (destemmed) 15% Syrah & 15% Mourvèdre. The iconic expression of La Crau. Med+ body with a herbal, sappy, garrigue driven core of dark plum fruit, cherry and orange rind. Fresh tilled earth, smoke and leather. Complex, complete with bold -upfront & firm yet polished tannin that Nicolas says needs 5 years at least in the cellar.
Vieux Télégraphe Rouge 2019 – From a hugely successful vintage. Displaying quite a subdued nose and a tense, layered palate. All the components are there but at least 5 years needed before it becomes integrated.
Overall, a fascinating tasting that cemented for me that we are dealing with one of the best in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. All the wines across all their appellations displayed finesse, terroir, skilled winemaking and quality fruit at the source. Thrilled to continue the story with Vieux Télégraphe.
Shop the Domaine Vieux Télégraphe range here.
Our final day in the Rhône we met Kirsty at 9am in the tasting room at Perrin’s Gigondas Domaine, Domaine du Clos des Tourelles.
2022 vintage – “The 2022 vintage experienced contrasting climatic hazards which allowed to offer good quality grapes and a very promising aromatic complexity, with however a heterogeneous volume depending on the plots. Sorting was essential.”
Kirsty summarised the 2023 vintage as “beautiful climatic balance, which is reflected in the cellar”. The first tastings reveal very balanced wines. They are rich, powerful and have good concentration, while having retained a beautiful freshness. A vintage that shows great potential with production figures up on previous vintages.
Coudoulet Blanc 2023 – (bottled) 30% of each: Bourboulenc, Marsanne & Viognier, 10% Viognier. 8 months in older oak. Med + body and engaging nose. Stone fruit, pineapple and a touch of mango. Medium acidity. Herb tinged finish, lovely purity & very enjoyable.
Beaucastel Blanc 2023 (not yet bottled) 14% abv. 7 hectares under vine. 80% Roussanne, 15% Grenache Blanc & 5% of each Picardan, Clairette, Bourboulenc. Density, intensity and richness on show. Stone fruit, grapefruit rind, tangerine & blossom. Really detailed and complex. Creamy, fresh finish that is salty & refreshing!
Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2023 – (not bottled) 100% Roussanne from 85-100 year old plots. 15hl/ha yield. 6000 bottles produced. More intensity on the nose, more concentration, depth of fruit: apricot, peach, fennel and honey. New oak comes through on the rich, oily, salty, ripe palate. Simply wonderful.
Vinsobres Rouge “Les Cornuds” 2022 – 14.5% abv. 20km North of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, most northern of Southern Rhône. 50% Syrah & 50% Grenache. A terror suited to Syrah. Reasonably simple compared to what went before but still very well made. Tasty and not unlike Brunier Mégaphone in style.
Vacqueyras Rouge “Les Christins” 2022 – 14.5% abv. 75% Grenache, 25% Syrah. Co planted, harvested at the same time. Grenache decides pick date, Syrah can be over ripe. Rich ripe nose of cherry, fig & chocolate. Quite appealing if a littleOTT.
Gigondas Rouge “La Grille” 2022 – 14.5% abv - 60% Grenache & 40% Syrah. Different style of Grapillon d’or. More supple, round and soft. Velveteen tannins and notes of red fruit shine brightly. Approachable and again, well made.
Domaine des Clos des Tourelles Rouge 2022 – 14% abv. Sourced from vines around the property as well as other parcels. 90% Grenache 10% Syrah. Rocky, intricate and complex nose. Quite savoury and serious and again, very harmonious. Sweet red fruit. Earth, spice & garrigue, and a little florality (violets). Med + weight and complete.
Coudoulet – Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge 2023 - (not yet bottled) 30 Hectares on the other side of the A7 motorway. Baby Beaucastel. 40% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah & 10% Cinsault. Their movinification, separate varietal fermentation then 6 months in foudre.
Château de Beaucastel – Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2023 - 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 10% Counoise (late ripening and able to deal with heat/drought), 5% Cinsault and 10% altogether of Vaccarèse, Terret Noir, Muscardin, Clairette, Picpoul, Picardan, Bourboulenc & Roussanne. Property is 110 hectares. One single vineyard plot of 70ha. All organically grown. Separate vinifcations, oak for reductive varieties – Syrah/Mourvèdre and enamel lined concrete for the rest. Blended, then into foudre for 12 months. The nose is powerful, intense, deep and complex. Serious deep glowing red colour. All bases covered – red fruit, strawberry, plum, black fruit, blackberry, cherry and everything in between – leather, herb, chocolate, earth, pepper. All encased in a tunnel of power and energy. Real class and poise with a finish that literally lasted 3 minutes. Divine.
Another fascinating tasting, Kirsty delivered with style and ease. There is a hallmark of quality that all the Perrin family wines seem to display. The focus on terroir on the more entry-level wines – Vinsobres etc. – may not be overtly present, but the quality certainly is.
Shop the Château de Beaucastel range here.