The JN Wine Rhône Tour 2025

On the third week in January some of the team had the privilege to visit the Rhône valley for a whirlwind tour to see some of the producers we work with and taste some wines. This is a summary of that trip and the wineries we visited with some tasting notes. 

 

No trip would be complete in Northern Rhône without visiting the charming Domaine André Perret situated in the sleepy village of Verlieux- Chavanay, South of Lyon. This was our first stop on the Rhône Valley trip.

Our morning tasting was hosted by Marie, André's daughter, who is now making the wines. She has been working alongside her father for the last number of years and has the same passion for the wines and love of the vineyards. The vines are planted on steep slopes not unlike the Mosel in Germany. It is definitely a labour of love, no machine harvesting here. The wines are made with minimum intervention, only using pesticides if required and yields are controlled. Wood is subtle and the Perret’s Condrieus are a reference point for the entire appellation. We were treated to a tasting across the range.

Vin de Pays now split the Marsanne/Viognier blend into two individual wines.

Marsanne 2023, 13%ABV - was fresh and appealing with good fruit and very easy drinking – new more modern style labels.

Saint Joseph Blanc 2023 13%ABV - 50 % Marsanne & 50% Roussanne good balance of fruit, medium acidity and long finish.

Saint Joseph Blanc 2009 – golden in colour, nutty and apricot aromas, tinge of salinity and finishes very dry. Interesting to taste after 2023 vintage.

Viognier 2023, 14%ABV - ripe peach and apricot fruits abound very pure.

Condrieu 2023 13% ABV - granite soils. Very supple, soft texture, savoury and complex with a very long finish.

Condrieu Clos Chanson 2023 12.5% ABV - 60 year old vines, more clay soils. Lovely, lifted stone fruits on palate and real purity to the wine, great length.

Condrieu Chery 2023 - bigger style of wine, intense aromas, very rich, peach apricots and floral notes. Big mouthfeel and hint of acidity on the finish. Keep for at least 10 years.

Merlot/Syrah 2023 Vin de Pays 13.5% ABV - quite sappy on the palate, juicy brambly fruit good balance of silky tannins and acid. Punches way above its appellation

Saint Joseph Rouge 2022 13.5% ABV. Syrah pure black and red fruits, tiny bit of oak, very structured on palate with real finesse on finish. Fabulous value for money, almost Burgundian in style.

Saint Joseph Rouge Les Grisieres 2022 14% ABV. 40 year old vines, very powerful wine with a bit of spice, bacon fat and garrigue. Fine tannins, pretty elegant style of wine, leave for at least another 4 years. Aged 2 years in oak barrels

Saint Joseph Rouge Les Grisieres 2010 – chocolate, blackberries and plum like aromas, grippy tannins and integrated acidity. Drinking beautifully and a real treat. Thank you, Perret family.

Shop the André Perret range here.

After lunch we attended a wine fair in Ampuis where we were able to taste wines from many Northern Rhône producers. We then drove up the steep road of the Côte-Rôtie hills with its hairpin bends towards Domaine Jamet where we had a tasting with Loïc. Loïc, along with his parents Jean-Paul and Corrine, cultivate the vines and create wines with a passion. The vineyards are largely on steep terraces so much of the work is done by hand. The challenging landscape demands respect of the terroir.

Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc 2023 - 60% Marsanne, 30% Viognier, 7% Rousanne, 3% Grenache Blanc. Well rounded with good fruit and floral notes. Malolactic gives complexity.

Condrieu 2023 - 100% Viognier. Aged in terracotta, round and mineral with soft fruits like white peach.

Côtes-du-Rhône 2023 - 100% Syrah. Vinification takes two weeks then aged in old wood for 2 years. Bright fresh red and dark berry fruit, a touch of pepper.

Côte-Rôtie Fructus Voluptas 2023 - 100% Syrah. Aged 16-18 months, mostly old oak, about 5% new oak. Bottled 10 days before this tasting. Voluptuous fruit, bright juicy, some peppery notes. This wine is made to be drunk earlier than the other Côte-Rôtie but will still age beautifully.

Équivoque 2022 - 100% Syrah. This wine is not made in difficult vintages. 2 plots from classic CDR mainly whole bunch 2 years of ageing special terroir, similar soil to Côte-Rôtie. Very elegant, ripe expression with some savoury notes like black olive tapenade.

Côte-Rôtie 2022 - 100% Syrah. Blend of plots except Brune. Power and tannins on the start, use of whole bunch keeps it fresh and structured. Dense dark fruit and some floral notes. Drinkable now but will age very well.

Côte-Rôtie la Ladonne 2022 - 100% Syrah. Only the 3rd vintage made of this wine. This plot is often used in the Côte Rôtie blend but is vinified separately, the decision as to if this will be bottled on its own or used in the blend is made 2 weeks before bottling. Elegant and tight, lighter than the Côte Rôtie, juicy with grippy tannins. The 2023 Côte Rôtie would not have been any lighter with the addition of this plot so it was kept separate.

Côte-Rôtie 2023 - barrel samples - 100% Syrah. 20 plots vinified in seven component parts, whole bunches used. We tasted four of the separately vinified components these are as follows:

  • Lésardes & Cogent - 10 year old vines - red fruit, a bit stemmy at this stage.
  • Gerine - Biggest plot in the domaine at 1.6ha. South facing with strong winds, this is the first plot to be harvested. Ripe red fruit and intense violet, whole bunches are used to prevent it being too big and powerful.
  • Fongeant - located near Côte-Brune, second biggest plot on the domaine, the soils here are very decomposed granite, very floral and elegant wine.
  • Le Plomb - a very consistent vineyard, harvested late, this part of the blend is the backbone, very structured and textural, more savoury notes and dark chocolate than other blend components.

In the words of Jean-Paul Jamet “some parcels provide elegance, while others determine the structure: it is the assemblage that makes everything bigger” this philosophy is evident after tasting some of the cask samples used to make the Côte Rôtie.

Côte-Brune 2023 - barrel sample - 100% Syrah. Savoury vintage, very powerful, tobacco and floral notes, lots of violet, long finish. 20% new oak used for ageing, the rest is old.

Côte-Rôtie 2007 - 100% Syrah. The development is apparent in the colour of the wine, chocolate, earth, smoke, tobacco. This bottle had been opened on the morning of our visit and  Loïc said it had opened up really well in the hours since and that it would be even better tomorrow!

Côte-Rôtie 2001 - 100% Syrah. This vintage was re-released last year. Beautifully balanced and elegant, earth, tobacco and smoke notes, fine tannins.

Loïc finished the tasting with something he called Jean-Paul’s experiment. His father had let some grapes dry on the vines before making wine with them. The result was a sweet red wine with great intensity and acidity with honeyed flavours. Thank you  Loïc for the tasting, it was truly an experience to taste some of the different elements that go into making your Côte-Rôtie.

Shop the Domaine Jamet range here.

Our first stop in Southern Rhône was the 50ha estate with 18ha in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The diverse range of soils in the 14 Châteauneuf-du-Pape plots of Roger Sabon allow for a diverse range of flavour profiles to be achieved from the wines. We arrived at the estate just after 9am on day 2 of our Rhône trip and found winemaker Didier amongst the tanks in the winery. Didier, whose wife is a Sabon, has been the winemaker at the Roger Sabon estate from 2001. We stood in the winery for a time discussing the fermentation and different tanks used for different wines before touring the cellar then we moved to the tasting room. In order to express the diversity of the soils the grapes undergo a long period of maceration and gentle extraction. The fermentation is in concrete or stainless steel depending on the wine being produced. The wines are then aged in large oak tanks known as foudres.

Côtes-du-Rhône 2023 - 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Cinsault. Easy drinking style Côtes-du-Rhône with vanilla and liquorice notes. The Cotes-du-Rhône plots are a relatively small proportion of the estate and some of the grapes that make up this blend come from the Lirac plot after the grapes for the Lirac have been selected.

Lirac 2023 – 70% Grenache, 10% Syrah,10% Moudevre and 10% old vine Carignan. An elegant wine with dark cherry and dark chocolate notes, fine tannins and good acidity.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reservé 2022 - 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Elegant tannins and concentrated fruit, this full bodied red shows dark cherry, bramble fruits and notes of liquorice on the palate.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Prestige 2022 – 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, 5% Cinsault. With both fresh red fruit and rich dark fruit showing on the palate along with spices and chocolate, the wine is excellently balanced and will age beautifully.

Le Secret des Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022 - 100% Grenache. Past vintages have had 1-2% Syrah This wine is made from 80 year old Grenache vines on sandy soils. The result is superb purity of fruit. Fresh red fruit and some herbal notes are beautifully balanced in this elegant wine.

Les Olivets Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023 – 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Cinsault. Full bodied, ripe tannins, garrigue, rich dark fruit and some spicy notes on this young wine.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 2023 – 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault. Good intensity, fresh dark fruits, particularly morello cherry and spicy notes.

Prestige Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023 - Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault. Deep black fruits, with some sweet spicy notes and a hint of floral, grippy tannins. Great ageing potential.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2024 - Rousanne, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc. This wine is still in large foudres and not due to be bottled quite yet. Good acidity, very well balanced and fresh. White fruit flavours, peach, almond and some light floral notes. The finish is persistent and shows well integrated minerality.

Didier’s team at Roger Sabon is a small one but their dedication to the land and the wines they produce is immense. Under his watchful eye and care in the winery the wines are delicate examples of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that showcase the diverse stony soils of the vineyards in which the vines grow. Thank you, Didier, for sharing your time and your knowledge.

Shop the Roger Sabon range here.

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One of the most beautiful villages in the Rhône is Gigondas, lovely sandy stone buildings with blue shutters reflecting the winter sunshine, vineyards everywhere you look. We are lucky to represent the Chauvet Family. Celine has been making the wines now for a number of years having taken over from her father Bernard. She was fortunate to be around while both her Grandfather Jean and her father Bernard produced wine. She farms 37 acres in Gigondas, primarily Grenache, and a small proportion of Syrah. We started the tasting off with a 100 % Grenache rosé made for the French market. Organic, 12% made from the younger parcels.

Vacqueyras Blanc 2023 13.5% ABV - 70% Clairette, 20% Roussanne, 5% Grenache Blanc & 5% Viognier. Organic. Lovely opulent white, gourmet style would be super with cheese or white meats.

Merlot Caladoc 2023  (Caladoc a cross between Grenache and Côt otherwise known as Malbec) 14%ABV - in Averil's opinion this is one of the best value wines we sell. Juicy blackcurrant fruit, very appealing aromas with a hint of violets, soft tannins, very supple. Drink now, enjoy a good value vin de pays from Vaucluse.

Vacqueyras 2022 -14% ABV. Perfumed red fruits, very pretty aromatics. Appealing bright red fruit on the palate with balanced acid and tannin. Ideal with grilled red meats, cheese and summer fayre.

Gigondas 2022 – 14.5%ABV 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah classic cuvee, no wood, aged in tank. Super, pure red berried fruit, soft, silky and seriously approachable. So fresh and dangerously moreish.

Gigondas Cuvée Excellence 2022 - 60% Grenache from 100 year old vines and 40% Syrah from 60 year old vines, two oldest parcels of Syrah planted in Gigondas by Celine’s Grandfather. WOW this is a serious glass of wine, spice, garrigue some provencal herbs and plenty of red fruit more raspberry than redcurrant, medium bodied with ripe tannins. A keeper for at least 10 years. Trust us, buy some it’s delicious and serious value for money.

Les Deux Parcelles 191/29 2022 – 90% Grenache from two vineyards planted in 1919 and 1929 hence the name of this cuvée and 5% Syrah. Still very young, aromas of violets, black fruits and garrigue. This is a full bodied wine with a velvety, long finish with a hint of chocolate. Drink from now for to least 6 years.

Afterwards we were treated to the most delicious truffle lunch with the wines. Such kindness and hospitality. Thank you Celine.

Shop the Grapillon D'Or range here.

Our second visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape on day 2 was to Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, located on the Northernmost part of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The winery and tasting room is located just off the road that separates Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards from Côtes-du-Rhône vineyards. 2024 was a difficult vintage. Grenache, which makes up 65% of the estate, is prone to mildew and 2024 was a very wet year. The grapes were very carefully picked and sorted before the winemaking began. The 2024 wines are still in concrete vats and will move to foudres in a few months. Antoine is confident that despite the difficult vintage, the 2024 wines show great quality of grape, a subtle balanced vintage with well-integrated tannins. Antoine showed us the two new wines in the Vieille Julienne range that are replacing the Daumen wines in their portfolio.

Ceci est un Flacon de Vin de France (It’s a Flask of Wine of France) 2022 - 60-65% Grenache 20% Syrah. This wine is made with the grapes from 2 plots, those previously used for Daumen Méditerranée and Côtes-du-Rhône , these are vinified together. Half of the Syrah is vinified in carbonic maceration style to obtain an incredibly fresh fruity wine. The rest undergoes 3-4 weeks vinification in concrete. The wine is aged in wood for 6 months.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022 - 70% Grenache, 5% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 15% Cinsault. All the grapes are from a single location of about 4ha with an average vine age of 60 years. Aged 12 months in old wood, the wine is balanced and elegant with complexity and a good fruit profile.

Clavin Côtes-du-Rhône 2022 - mostly low yield old vine Grenache. This CDR is made from one plot, 2022 was a good vintage for weather so the focus is on the fruit. Lots of complexity and structure, rich with layers of fruit and spices.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Trois Sources 2020 - 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Counoise, 5% Mourvèdre and Monastrell. From the lowest part of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape hill opposite the winery. Occasionally old Grenache root stock was used to graft Counoise vines giving rise to a different flavour profile. Opulent and complex with soft tannins, a great fruit profile and subtle salinity. Very well balanced with a long finish.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape les Hauts-Lieux 2020 - 70% old Grenache (80-90 years) 20% Mourvèdre, 5% Cinsault, 5% Counoise. A little further up the hill from Trois Sources, and therefore feels the effect of the Mistral wind more. This plot used to have Syrah as well but it was ripening too fast compared to the other varieties so they changed the plantings and the resulting wine from this plot is more easy drinking. The terroir of this plot is very mixed, from sand to large pebbles. The wine is compact with a lot going on, morello cherries, plush fruit, violet and liquorice, full bodied and opulent. Structured and elegant.

Shop the Domaine de la Vieille Julienne range here.

Tuesday, Jan 21st 5pm– Domaine Vieux Télégraphe – Hosted by Nicolas Brunier (6th generation to be involved with Domaine).

Nicolas was originally responsible for the viticultural side of operations, having completed six different “stages” in California, Argentina and numerous Domaines across France including Bordeaux and Burgundy.  Edouard has taken over this role and Nicolas is now charged with vinicultural practises/hosting etc. Both his uncle Daniel and father Frédéric have taken a slight step back from operations though no doubt keep a close eye.  Nicolas' sister Manon is tasked with HR and all other glamorous, yet necessary tasks.

Nicolas was amiable and easy to get on with. He took us on a quick tour of winery and the vast, recently magnificently renovated cellars. He informed us that over the last five vintages they have lost approximately half of their output in a form due to: hurricanes, rain/hail, mildew, coulure and other yield reducing climactic factors.

Nicolas told us “Overall, the vines handled the heat and drought of 2023 well in the Southern Rhône, and that I would say that 2023 was as successful a white vintage as it was red vintage in Châteauneuf. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape there are some extremely high-quality red wines to be found, yet in this vintage, choosing carefully is key.  Some over ripeness can exist and high alcohol levels were detected across many wines, with abvs in and around 15%."

Pigeoulet Blanc 2023 – Vin de Pays de Vaucluse - Bold, fresh and aromatic with balance and simple yet defined fruit.  Med – acidity but well-made and expressive.

Pigeoulet Rouge 2023 – 14.5% abv – Medium body, fresh with firm tannins and a spicy gentle backbone of dark fruit. Made at Domaine la Roquète – all aged in concrete.

Mégaphone 2023 – 14.5% abv – Mainly Grenache with 20 Syrah.  Some whole bunches.  This lends a darker fruited, bolder expression when compared to Pigeoulet.  Slightly less finesse but fleshier, supple and soft – a bit more commercially viable.

Domaine Les Pallières – “Terrasse du Diable” Gigondas 2023 – 90% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre. No “Les Racines” was produced in 2023 due to Grenache suffering from widespread grape shatter. Grapes for Terrasse du Diable were not affected as the vines are younger and seemingly shatter is not as prevalent. So aromatically charged, red fruit, cherry, plum, strawberry, liquorice, garrigue and intense aromatics. Very pretty, even at this stage. Different in style to Les Racines which normally presets as a darker, rockier more tense style, though no less appealing. 

Clos La Roquete Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2023 – 13.5% - Equal parts Grenache Blanc, Clairette & Roussanne. 50 year old vines – 4 hectare plot.  Medium body with real energy on the nose. Pineapple, almond, stone fruit and some secondary notes of honey, nut and cream. Very impressionable and delicious! 

Vieux Télégraphe Blanc 2023 – All “La Crau” fruit – 40% Clairette, 25% each Grenache Blanc & Roussanne & 10% Bourboulenc.  Quite and dense nose but more refinement and savoury character. Fans out on the finish.  Apple, fennel, pineapple but with a stony line of acidity. Will take longer to reveal true depths. Layered and absolutely gorgeous. 

Vieux Télégraphe Blanc 2019 – Subdued nose showing some slight oxidation that even Nicolas remarked on, needed decanting. Flax, nut, quince and dried citrus and flower.  Salty mineral finish but hard to resist. Very gourmand and complex.  

Telegramme Rouge 2023 - blend of 90% Grenache and the rest of Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Floral, open and charming.  Averil described it as a “beginners guide to Châteauneuf-du-Pape”. Soft tannins, sandy, lovely complexity and so charming. A real winner. 

Piedlong Rouge 2023 – 11 hectares - 90% Grenache (sourced on galets roulés) and 10% Mourvèdre on sandy soils near Pignan (Rayas country). The exotic, perfumed and floral side of Grenache but with density of spice, red berries and garrigue. Medium bodied and very compact at this stage. 

Vieux Télégraphe Rouge 2023 – Average age of vines -70 year old plot – 70% Grenache (destemmed) 15% Syrah & 15% Mourvèdre. The iconic expression of La Crau.  Med+ body with a herbal, sappy, garrigue driven core of dark plum fruit, cherry and orange rind. Fresh tilled earth, smoke and leather. Complex, complete with bold -upfront & firm yet polished tannin that Nicolas says needs 5 years at least in the cellar.  

Vieux Télégraphe Rouge 2019 – From a hugely successful vintageDisplaying quite a subdued nose and a tense, layered palate.  All the components are there but at least 5 years needed before it becomes integrated.  

Overall, a fascinating tasting that cemented for me that we are dealing with one of the best in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. All the wines across all their appellations displayed finesse, terroir, skilled winemaking and quality fruit at the source. Thrilled to continue the story with Vieux Télégraphe.

Shop the Domaine Vieux Télégraphe range here.

Our final day in the Rhône we met Kirsty at 9am in the tasting room at Perrin’s Gigondas Domaine, Domaine du Clos des Tourelles.

2022 vintage – “The 2022 vintage experienced contrasting climatic hazards which allowed to offer good quality grapes and a very promising aromatic complexity, with however a heterogeneous volume depending on the plots. Sorting was essential.”

Kirsty summarised the 2023 vintage as “beautiful climatic balance, which is reflected in the cellar”. The first tastings reveal very balanced wines. They are rich, powerful and have good concentration, while having retained a beautiful freshness. A vintage that shows great potential with production figures up on previous vintages.

Coudoulet Blanc 2023 – (bottled) 30% of each: Bourboulenc, Marsanne & Viognier, 10% Viognier. 8 months in older oak. Med + body and engaging nose. Stone fruit, pineapple and a touch of mango. Medium acidity. Herb tinged finish, lovely purity & very enjoyable.  

Beaucastel Blanc 2023 (not yet bottled) 14% abv. 7 hectares under vine. 80% Roussanne, 15% Grenache Blanc & 5% of each Picardan, Clairette, Bourboulenc. Density, intensity and richness on show. Stone fruit, grapefruit rind, tangerine & blossom. Really detailed and complex. Creamy, fresh finish that is salty & refreshing! 

Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2023 – (not bottled) 100% Roussanne from 85-100 year old plots. 15hl/ha yield.  6000 bottles produced. More intensity on the nose, more concentration, depth of fruit: apricot, peach, fennel and honey. New oak comes through on the rich, oily, salty, ripe palate. Simply wonderful.  

Vinsobres Rouge “Les Cornuds” 2022 – 14.5% abv. 20km North of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, most northern of Southern Rhône. 50% Syrah & 50% Grenache. A terror suited to Syrah. Reasonably simple compared to what went before but still very well made. Tasty and not unlike Brunier Mégaphone in style.  

Vacqueyras Rouge “Les Christins” 2022 – 14.5% abv. 75% Grenache, 25% Syrah. Co planted, harvested at the same time.  Grenache decides pick date, Syrah can be over ripe. Rich ripe nose of cherry, fig & chocolate.  Quite appealing if a littleOTT. 

Gigondas Rouge “La Grille” 2022 – 14.5% abv - 60% Grenache & 40% Syrah. Different style of Grapillon d’or. More supple, round and soft. Velveteen tannins and notes of red fruit shine brightly. Approachable and again, well made.

Domaine des Clos des Tourelles Rouge 2022 – 14% abv.  Sourced from vines around the property as well as other parcels. 90% Grenache 10% Syrah. Rocky, intricate and complex nose. Quite savoury and serious and again, very harmonious. Sweet red fruit. Earth, spice & garrigue, and a little florality (violets). Med + weight and complete.  

Coudoulet – Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge 2023  - (not yet bottled) 30 Hectares on the other side of the A7 motorway. Baby Beaucastel. 40% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah & 10% Cinsault. Their movinification, separate varietal fermentation then 6 months in foudre. 

Château de Beaucastel – Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2023 - 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 10% Counoise (late ripening and able to deal with heat/drought), 5% Cinsault and 10% altogether of Vaccarèse, Terret Noir, Muscardin, Clairette, Picpoul, Picardan, Bourboulenc & Roussanne. Property is 110 hectares. One single vineyard plot of 70ha. All organically grown. Separate vinifcations, oak for reductive varieties – Syrah/Mourvèdre and enamel lined concrete for the rest. Blended, then into foudre for 12 months. The nose is powerful, intense, deep and complex. Serious deep glowing red colour. All bases covered – red fruit, strawberry, plum, black fruit, blackberry, cherry and everything in between – leather, herb, chocolate, earth, pepper. All encased in a tunnel of power and energy. Real class and poise with a finish that literally lasted 3 minutes. Divine.  

Another fascinating tasting, Kirsty delivered with style and ease. There is a hallmark of quality that all the Perrin family wines seem to display.  The focus on terroir on the more entry-level wines – Vinsobres etc. – may not be overtly present, but the quality certainly is. 

Shop the Château de Beaucastel range here.

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