With the 2020 red Vieux Télégraphe, the first impression is a nose of extremely ripe red berry fruits and spice. It is not at all heavy: cute, structured, a slight "liquorice and vanilla pod" vibe, appealingly fresh, deep and vinous.

On the palate, an attractive and serene attack, not at all violent, fairly conventional. The ripe fruit on the nose is well contained: it comes on slowly, and you are taken over by a handsome "old fashioned" frame, mixed with the berry fruits; it is very vinous, mineral, salty, smoky, slightly austere, and graphic. This is a vintage that reminds us where we come from; where the tannic structure outlines the wine without forcing itself upon you; and it maybe also reminds us of the late '80s.

After a summer which was also above average, in terms of heat, picking leapt forward to 25 August. Which is how, helped by perfectly healthy grapes and fairly low yields, the harvest (across all appellations) had ended by 19 September - certainly an all-time record for Vignobles Brunier.

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe in Chateauneuf du Pape has been run by the Brunier family for six generations. The estate's vineyards, 60 years old on average, are planted on the celebrated Plateau of La Crau, a site renowned for grape-growing in Chateauneuf du Pape. This terroir imparts a highly distinctive minerality to the wines.

"This amazing Chateauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness in spite of coming from a very warm and dry vintage. The stony minerality, saltiness and dried flower character wind together to form a dynamic whole, driving this gracefully across the palate. But I must also mention the savory and licorice richness that is so deftly wrapped around them. Very long, salty and velvety finish. Drink or hold."
97 points.
Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling.com (May 2023)