Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe La Crau Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2016, 75cl
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has been run by our family, the Brunier family, for six generations - since 1891 to be precise. The estate’s vineyards, 60 years old on average, are planted on the celebrated Plateau of La Crau, a site renowned for grape-growing in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This terroir imparts to our wines a highly distinctive minerality, as if they have been filtered through the thick layer of large pebbles left behind when the Alpine glaciers melted, long before the Rhône Valley formed.
Our philosophy? Organic-raisonné and sustainable grape-growing. Whether our team of vignerons are labouring on the hot Plateau of La Crau, in the lieux-dits of Pignan, La Roquète and Piedlong, or on the cold steep slopes in the district of Les Pallières, they are driven all year round by the conviction that the grapes should be able to thrive and be picked in the best possible conditions.
Fine fruit is essential for a fine vintage. To achieve this, they are quick to tailor each task to each parcel of vines: for instance, pruning, the spreading of organic manure and traditional ploughing are winter chores that may seem straightforward at first glance, but in fact demand great care. In springtime and summer, the same applies for the debudding, done by hand, and the removal of surplus unripe grapes and surplus leaves; balance is everything, and practically each vine enjoys its own.
A member of the classic school of white Châteauneuf-du-Pape: more floral than fruity aromas, and characterised by balance and freshness. It might dip in form between four and eight years, but the best vintages age as well as the reds.
Clairette (40%), Grenache Blanc (30%) Roussanne (15%) and the addition of Bourboulenc (15%)
"Stunning baked-apple fruit with cinnamon spice and white chocolate. Charming and generous, but has good acidic backbone too. Refreshing and satisfying, and concentrated enough to age well. Drink 2018-2024.
(Richard Hemming, Janic Robinson Purple Pages, November 2017)
"The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is tight and zesty, reflecting its high proportion of Clairette (40%), low proportion of Roussanne (15%) and the addition of Bourboulenc (15%) to the blend. Lime zest and the merest hints of pencil shavings mark this medium-bodied white. If you enjoy aging your white Châteauneufs, this would be one to put away. Drink 2017 -2025.
(Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate # 233, October 2017)